Heading to Mallorca / Dan Varian Interview

Suzie and I are headed to Mallorca first thing in the morning for a week with the UKC/Rockfax team.

There is a new Mallorca guide book in the pipeline and we will be taking some of the action shots this week.

This is both good and bad – good in that it’s a holiday in the sun (awesome!) and I’ll get to hike the fitness levels, but bad in that both Pete and Caff have mentioned that they will be up at Gallt yr Ogof while I’m away!

One part of me (the large part) is praying for rain in Snowdonia! The nice (tiny) part of me wishes them both luck on Mission Impossible.

Hopefully I’ll be back fighting fit and ready to do battle with Mission in just over a week.

I published an interview on UKClimbing.com today with Dan Varian about his new boulder problem Arc Royal. As the lines between bouldering and micro-routing get ever more blurred, I find these ascents are hard to quantify with our silly grading systems and pigeon holes. Is this an E8 7b trad route? Or is it a Font 8A+ boulder?

It is what it is. High, scary and awesome.

Whatever it is – good effort to Dan, he’s inspired an ageing tradster to train a little bit harder.